How do you make the choice on blade steel? You learn that each grade is a compromise. It is a trade-off. Get more of one, lose some of another.
Here’s how to decode those choices in an 18-grade breakdown (the chart above). It lays out the trade-offs; where you’ll get greater hardness and where you’ll give up some toughness. Turn the confusing abbreviations into a simple guide that shows how the material will work.
How to Choose the Right Blade Steel
But that’s only the beginning of the primary decision. Stainless vs. Should it be carbon?
Carbon Steels (like 1095 and 1075) is workhorses. They hold an edge really well, and if you grind them on a rock, they’ll forgive you. But guess what? They RUST. Leave a carbon knife wet, and it’ll stain.
Folks think this means stainless is superior. It’s not; it’s simply more convenient. Stainless Steels (like 154CM or 440C) has chromium in ’em. The chromium resists corrosion… That makes them great for diving blades or kitchen knives where there’s no need to fuss. You do often have to grind it harder to get back to edge though.
With the arrival of steel grades such as Elmax, S35VN, S30V, powder metallurgy shifted the game again. With these steels you have small carbides dispersed in the metal. No more brittle high carbon tool steels here. And you also gain great edge retention.
So these is folders in the mid- to high-end range. They hold an edge for weeks, not days. They live on a different branch of tree according to the infographic. It focuses on moderate corrosion protection while still keeping wear resistance. They are a nice middle ground for your everyday carry knives used under mixed condition.
Everyone talks about hardness, but that’s only half of the equation. If your blade is too soft, like 58 HRC, then it won’t hold an edge as long as a harder one like 64 HRC. But if your blade is too hard, and you need to pry open a box, it’ll chip.
So you see, everything has its place… You want a hard blade to cut paper, but not so much when you’re cutting wood. This is why your blade falls somewhere along that spectrum on the Rockwell scale (shown on the chart).
Your blade will fall along that scale depending off the heat treat process used in the guide. Proper tempering takes care of relieving those stresses inside the steel and making it more ductile or less brittle. Otherwise, that hard blade will be fragile.
The steel is important. So is the geometry. A flat grind cuts nicely. A convex grind make an even stronger edge. Take some of the toughest steels such as 1084 and put a thin grind on them and they’ll out perform a good steel with a bad grind. It’s all about matching the blade to the job.
If I want a beefy folder to stand up to abuse, I’m going with D2. If I’m making a big cleaver or sword that needs to bend and not break, I’m going with something softer like 5160.
The last variable is maintenance. Stainless just needs a quick wipe down, but carbon steel requires oiling after every use to prevent rust. Minutes of care vs days of neglect. You should of maintained it. So understanding your steel shows respect for it.
Understanding that W2 razor steel is brittle but hard means you’ll take care of it. Understanding 1075 is soft but tough means you sharpens it more often. The data is just for reference. The skill is knowing when to draw out the stone and when to trust the edge. And that knowledge comes not from just reading the tag but using the knife.
Lastly, the best steel is the steel you’re going to maintain.
