The hardware aisle is a sea of cans, all of which seem alike. A sea of promises: Golden Oak! Early American! And then the swatch on the side of each can do not show what it really looks like. Not only does it show you what the stain would look like under fluorescent lighting, not what it’s going to do to your piece in your own home, but those swatches is often on plastic or raw board rather than actual wood you’re using.
This leads to failure of most DIY projects. You buy a quart of dark walnut. You put it on your rustic dining table, and now it’s too dark.
How to Choose Wood Stain Color
The chart above visually lays out the range from light honey to deep ebony. It show you how the colors will actualy look on wood grain, rather than just showing them in a can. First, you need to understand that. And secondly you have to know that stain doesn’t paint wood. By definition, a stain is a see-through product. Its pigment takes on whatever look of the species it is applied to. So if you want all your wood to look alike you have to match the stain to the species. It is not the color itself but the species.
For example, oak has open pores which absorb large amounts of color. That means applying any color to oak will typically make it darker then desired. Pine is also soft with blotchy texture. Apply a walnut stain to pine without conditioning first and you’ll end up with light and dark streaks everywhere. Nothing like the even gradient you see in the chart. Again, this isn’t the stain’s fault. It is the way the wood textures itself. Picking out the stain color you liked at the store isn’t as important as matching the stain to the wood.
The type of stain base does make all the difference. An oil based stain takes longer to dry. It may be two hours or more. Don’t touch your piece right after applying it, the oil soaks deeper into the wood and levels itself out. Minor application mistakes is forgiven. A water based is faster drying (an hour). While that’s nice, it doesn’t work well when blending the edges. You only have a short time before the stain sets up. And if you missed it you’ll have lap marks.
Then there is the new compromise gel stain. The benefit here is that it won’t soak into the wood, rather it just sits on the surface. This means it’s great for pieces where things might drip, like vertical surfaces such as cabinet doors. It won’t accentuate grain as much either but does offer even coverage, no drips.
There’s also the variable of sheen. In flat matte finishes, wood surface imperfections are concealed. Under bad light, however, they appear dull. With high gloss, anything reflect back at you. Every ding and scratch is visible. No matter how many times you sand them out, they is still there. Satin (or semi-gloss) finds a balance. It is reflective enough to feel complete without screaming “flaws” at you like a billboard on furniture legs. As the chart shows, sheen interacts with color. Richer looking dark walnut appear in satin than in flat matte. Wet-appearing surfaces reflect light differently which deepens the perceived color.
Custom blending, waiting for oil-based stains to dry, and testing your batches all take a lot of time. To achieve a shade not found on the shelf, you’ll need to mix two compatible stains together in another container. Begin by mixing eight parts of your lighter stain to twenty parts of your darker stain. Thoroughly stir. Now go ahead and test.
Yes, this matters. Use a scrap piece of same wood species as your project. Dab on a bit. Allow it to dry overnight (twenty four hours). Apply the top coat. It will always be slightly darker after sealing. Polyurethane and wax add a layer which move the color downward. An amber that looks warm when wet may turn tan and look cooler once coated.
It’s all in the mind, really. Your brain is trying to match what you expect with what is actually happening, but things aren’t working out. Realize that what you end up with might vary a little from the can. Pay attention to how fast it dries, its species oddness, and the way the grain runs. Let the visual aid serve as a starting point, but no more.
Then when you wipe off the overflow stain and take a step back, you’ll be glad for having done the prep work. It’s that warm depth that makes it all worth while. That would of taken another hour.
