You know the one, a drip-drip-drip from a faucet. Why does it always sound louder when you’re trying to fall asleep? So there you are in bed, waiting for each drop with your eyes closed and trying to figure out what’s going wrong. Is it something as simple as replacing a washer? Or will it require more?
Matching the size correctly will determine whether the fix lasts or fails shortly after. There is three things: the right size, shape, and material, and the washer has to match both the seat and the valve profile.
How to Fix a Leaky Tap
To see which shape matches your tap, there are three types of seals (and I’ve seen other variations). First, some taps has a flat ring of brass clamping onto a flat disc. Others have a more conical or domed shape wedged inside a curved brass face. That’s where the infographics come in: they match the shapes to the appropriate seal. If you get the wrong one, it might work… for now. Sooner or later, pressure will force it open once more.
The chart above show the most popular household tap sizes and links them to the right taps. While there’s no need to remember all the numbers, outer size has to include the entire seat. Too-small washers will leak because they don’t cover the whole seat; too-large ones cut themselves off from the brass when they’re pushed down against the seat and distort out of shape. To avoid returning to buy again: Measure either the seat bore or the washer, and you’ve got it made.
Besides being of the right size, material selection matter too. Different types of rubber behave different when exposed to chemicals and hot water. What’s fine on your cold kitchen tap might be all wrong on a hot water line that you use more often, resulting in premature failure. This infograph compares washers so you can see what kind suits certain conditions. For instance, EPDM is versatile enough for most uses, but some other compounds has their place in certain situations. Avoid premature wear by matching the material to the conditions, temperature of water and possible oil exposure.
Finally, sometimes it’s not just the washer that’s bad; a bad valve seat can tear up a new one in a hurry. That’s what the section on regrinding is for, when the seat needs to be resurfaced before adding a new washer. If a new washer leaks right out of the package or wears unevenly shortly thereafter, it is an indication it’s time for the seat to get some love. Often it is why the repair doesn’t last, although you should of skipped this part.
The steps of replacing the washer are straightforward: turn off the water, take out the gland nut and handle. Follow this infograph instructions for installing, step by step. Most of our errors happen before contact with the tap, did we turn off the isolation valve? Does the handle move freely when pushed back on? These are the omissions that make your simple task an extended clean-up project.
What it means for you is that there are taps and there are tap washers; each one has its own special role to play in keeping your tap in good working order. If you get all of those parts right, then it’ll work well and blend into the background as intended. Match everything correctly and you can trust the repair will hold up.
